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My outfits are typical of the northwest, although I am of SE Indian ancestry. I would prefer to have an outfit that better reflects my ancestors, but since I am completely inept at sewing clothing, I have to either buy or trade, and the regalia around here is quit different from the south. I do make most of my accessories though.
Its definitely best to learn how to make your own outfit, but for those of you who are as clueless as I am about sewing, its still possible to obtain one. Most of my regalia that I didn’t make was either a gift, or was traded from people I knew and trusted. Occasionally I have asked someone I knew well to make something specifically. I prefer to trade my beadwork, basketry, or berries, but if cash is involved, I like to use money from beadwork I had sold. Here theres folks who make their entire outfits, but there are also folks who specialize in one certain thing, and then trade for other items.
If you do try to sew and screw up and cut out the material wrong, don’t worry about piecing stuff together. I have seen dress tops that were entirely made of little pieces of leather, as small as my fingernails. It may not win you points at a contest powwow, but that is how the old ones did it.
Occasionally I have purchased an item from a stranger. But I only do this if I know exactly what I want, had been looking for that item for some time, and the price was right. Last summer I found a $200 shell dress for $45 at a flea market. They had no idea what they had. I talked them down to $40.
I’ve also been powwowing here for about 15 years, so I’m familiar enough to know exactly what I want, and all the little important details. And different people within the same tribe may have different ideas about what is proper or not, so I take some rules less seriously than others.
As far as plans for south eastern regalia, since I work better with leather, I’ll probably go with a contact era leather outfit, or possibly a simple cloth dress. But no wool! Having suffered at enough stifling south east summer powwows, I now know why our ancestors went topless that time of year.
If you look at Ken’s bag, it’s what was left of the leather from making his leggings…use what you have. Piecing was what you had to do and still do….to repair or be thrifty.
I acquired a couple of bracelets and necklaces by looking a flea markets…a lady was selling her grandmother’s “costume” jewelry. They were made from apple seeds…I had to pass up the rosary beads made from Trail of Tears corn…he wanted too much for it…more than I had in my pocket. Still regret not getting it….
I know what you mean about looking for an item at a pow wow…I usually know which vendors will have certain items that I need to finish a project or may carry a specific item. The rule of thumb is to look at all the vendors first before making any decisions.
No matter what you dress in for Cheroenhaka in July….it’s almost always HOT! At least last year it wasn’t in the 100s like the previous year. Don’t think going topless would be an option for me….might end up with whiplash…LOL.
I’m with you Becky…lol…
I have seen some very simple leather regalia…because I cannot sew either! I have seen it sewn with leather lacing or tied with leather, doesn’t look too difficult. About what to adorn it with…I would have to wait and see what stirs…
Shirley
Leather is nice but unwearable in July in the heat. The dress I wore, and you borrowed, Shirley, at the Cherhoenhaka pow wow I believe originated as a sweat dress with the Lakota. I know a variation of it is used there now for that purpose. It’s also called a ribbon dress and is used for regalia all over the country. It was quite cool to wear, as cool as you can be in that heat. The secret is that the bottom seam of the sleeve is nonexistent. It’s left open. It’s also loose fitting, so that when done up in cotton with all that ventilation, it’s a very sensible thing to be wearing in the heat. I also like that it has Siouan connections, so I’m quite enthusiastic about it. Also, the way I make it, it’s one size fits all making it practical to whip up a few and see who wants ’em. They’ve been going like hot cakes.
Linda wrote: Leather is nice but unwearable in July in the heat. The dress I wore, and you borrowed, Shirley, at the Cherhoenhaka pow wow I believe originated as a sweat dress with the Lakota. I know a variation of it is used there now for that purpose. It’s also called a ribbon dress and is used for regalia all over the country. It was quite cool to wear, as cool as you can be in that heat. The secret is that the bottom seam of the sleeve is nonexistent. It’s left open. It’s also loose fitting, so that when done up in cotton with all that ventilation, it’s a very sensible thing to be wearing in the heat. I also like that it has Siouan connections, so I’m quite enthusiastic about it. Also, the way I make it, it’s one size fits all making it practical to whip up a few and see who wants ’em. They’ve been going like hot cakes.
You’re right Linda, had I been in leather last year, I would have died! I really liked the dress you lent me, but I have a feeling I would have a hard time making something like that…believe me, my gifting is not sewing. In school I remember having to make a project…I chose a tube top (how could I mess that up??). Well, I did…:o
Shirley:)
Linda,
Sounds like the dress you are describing is what we call a wing dress here, thats what I wear in the heat. Very easy to make and one size fits all, most folks add ribbon to it. That said, I’ve never been able to make one that fits, or at least isn’t way crooked. I think my inability to follow even a simple pattern is related to my inability to follow a basic recipe. So I leave the dress making to the experts.
As far as leather, the only kind that is wearable in the heat is braintan. Folks here will wear that when its 100 degrees. It breathes much better than commercial. I try to stay away from commercial leather as much as possible, but then theres a steady supply of brain tan were I live. No one makes it here, traders bring it from afar.
Excellent! Last time I made rawhide, my neighbors had a fit, and theres no room in my yard to spread out. (I live in town against a cliff). But if I get ahold of another hide, I’d try it again. Let me know how it turns out.
I have been drying Mallard duck head skins in my garage, I’m thinking I could use them for feather work. I can’t leave any skins outside though, cause the neighbors dogs will eat it. For some reason hide tanning has somewhat died out on the rez here, I don’t know of anyone that still does it.
spilleddi wrote: Linda,
Sounds like the dress you are describing is what we call a wing dress here, thats what I wear in the heat. Very easy to make and one size fits all, most folks add ribbon to it. That said, I’ve never been able to make one that fits, or at least isn’t way crooked. I think my inability to follow even a simple pattern is related to my inability to follow a basic recipe. So I leave the dress making to the experts.
As far as leather, the only kind that is wearable in the heat is braintan. Folks here will wear that when its 100 degrees. It breathes much better than commercial. I try to stay away from commercial leather as much as possible, but then theres a steady supply of brain tan were I live. No one makes it here, traders bring it from afar.
Tonya,
Say, I have read about brain tanning, but what is it about the process that would make it breathe better. The lack of chemicals?? I understand moisture propellants would be a given at making the leather less breathable. I loved the regalia you wore last year…What you wore reminded me of Chief Joseph…
my favorite quote (especially the last two sentences): The earth is our mother. She should not be disturbed by hoe or plough. We want only to subsist on what she freely gives us. Our fathers gave us many laws, which they had learned from their fathers. These laws were good. I have carried a heavy load on my back ever since I was a boy. I realized then that we could not hold our own with the white men. We were like deer. They were like grizzly bears. We had small country. Their country was large. We were contented to let things remain as the Great Spirit Chief made them. They were not, and would change the rivers and mountains if they did not suit them.
Ken, from what I have seen, you have done great work at putting your regalia together as with becky…it suits you both. That’s what it is all about, eh? It has to reflect who you are.
Shirley
sammarroq wrote:
What you wore reminded me of Chief Joseph…
Maybe Chief Joseph in drag… heehee! Actually the dress I wore the 2nd day was the only dress I’ve managed to make that was presentable. Its to short to wear here without offending anyone, but I brought it anyways.
The last time I worked a hide, I didn’t get past the rawhide stage before the dogs ate it (I didn’t have any brains). I don’t know what it is about braintan, maybe because its softer, but I’ve always been told that braintan keeps you cool in summer and warm in winter. Commercial is the opposite and heavier. Plus impossible for me to bead on.
Who is the quote from? I like the last line. Lately around here the rivers and mountains have been fighting back.
My regalia has evolved quite a bit since last summer 😉 I started as basic eastern woodland but am now striving to REPRESENT a Va/NC mixed blood circa 1700. Someone who is a part of both euro and ndn worlds…. yet is more at home outside both worlds. Someone who uses what he has to make what he needs. Since I don’t dance for competition, I don’t feel bound by rules of dress established in 1920s Oklahoma…… and I don’t feel comfortable dressing as a plains ndn would have in the 1870s. I dance for my NC/Va ancestors so I dress as I feel they would have.
spilleddi wrote: Maybe Chief Joseph in drag… heehee! Actually the dress I wore the 2nd day was the only dress I’ve managed to make that was presentable. Its to short to wear here without offending anyone, but I brought it anyways.
The last time I worked a hide, I didn’t get past the rawhide stage before the dogs ate it (I didn’t have any brains). I don’t know what it is about braintan, maybe because its softer, but I’ve always been told that braintan keeps you cool in summer and warm in winter. Commercial is the opposite and heavier. Plus impossible for me to bead on.
Who is the quote from? I like the last line. Lately around here the rivers and mountains have been fighting back.
I thought your regalia was wonderful, I liked the mix of textures, it was feminine, but exuded strength and confidence.
I would like to try tanning, looks like it is a lengthy process, but the outcome is really beautiful.
The quote is from Chief Joseph, he has many, but this one is my favorite. Yeah, the last two line are my favorites…
Dreaminghawk wrote: My regalia has evolved quite a bit since last summer 😉 I started as basic eastern woodland but am now striving to REPRESENT a Va/NC mixed blood circa 1700. Someone who is a part of both euro and ndn worlds…. yet is more at home outside both worlds. Someone who uses what he has to make what he needs. Since I don’t dance for competition, I don’t feel bound by rules of dress established in 1920s Oklahoma…… and I don’t feel comfortable dressing as a plains ndn would have in the 1870s. I dance for my NC/Va ancestors so I dress as I feel they would have.
I can’t wait to see the changes Ken;) Actually, can’t wait to see you and Becky again, it was fun! And a learning experience as well:)
Shirley
If I may I would like to discribe my suits, just briefly.
I wear ribbon shirts of many different color schemes, some flowery, some plain(single color), some multicolor, etc. All are long sleeved shirts.
I have a set of Tab leggins made of buckskin. The tabs end with turkey beards from each flap(4 flaps). These are edge beaded and a row of beads near the edge.
I have 4 trade cloth leggins. 3 blue and 1 red. 2 of the blue and the red set are edged with ribbon work, while the other blue set have bead work down the edge.
I have 4 sets of aprons and 1 breechcloth. 3 sets of aprons and the breechcloth are blue and 1 set of aprons are red. 1 set of the blue aprons have the bead work to match the beaded leggins. The other sets of aprons with the breechcloth have ribbonwork.
I have 3 sets of Mocs, all buckskin, home made by me. all are beaded.
More later, I have to go.
Bob
cherosage;33618 wrote: If I may I would like to discribe my suits, just briefly.
I wear ribbon shirts of many different color schemes, some flowery, some plain(single color), some multicolor, etc. All are long sleeved shirts.
I have a set of Tab leggins made of buckskin. The tabs end with turkey beards from each flap(4 flaps). These are edge beaded and a row of beads near the edge.
I have 4 trade cloth leggins. 3 blue and 1 red. 2 of the blue and the red set are edged with ribbon work, while the other blue set have bead work down the edge.
I have 4 sets of aprons and 1 breechcloth. 3 sets of aprons and the breechcloth are blue and 1 set of aprons are red. 1 set of the blue aprons have the bead work to match the beaded leggins. The other sets of aprons with the breechcloth have ribbonwork.
I have 3 sets of Mocs, all buckskin, home made by me. all are beaded.
More later, I have to go.
Bob
I’m back. I just had to do some work
I have 2 sets of finger woven side drops w/garters, and one set of beaded garters.
I have 3 sets of bandaleers. 2 are of glass beads and 1 I used mescal beans.
I have many sets of neck scarves with the tobacco bundles to hang from my bandaleers. Most all of my scarves were made by my wife and are of a satin type of material at least they are shiny and smooth on one side and not the other.
I have 3 beaded belts and 1 concho belt.
I have 2 sets of arm bands, 1 wide and 1 narrow. I also have a set of bracelots. all german silver.
I have 2 otter drops, 1 with beaded edge and the other is ribbon work. I have a concho or hair drop. the 2 otter drops are on blue trade cloth and the hair drop is on red.
My tobacco bag is red and blue, and the other is buckskin(white).
I have 2 mirror boards and 4 dance sticks.
I have 2 Eagle wing fans, 2 Eagle tail fans, an Eagle loose feather fan and a number of others such as macaw, hawk, etc.
I have 3 roaches, 1 is a traditional turkey beard roach and 2 are porkies. I have 1 Otter Turbin. I have one double Eagle Feather spreader and 1 single Eagle Feather spreader. The double is made of bone and the single is german silver.
I have a set of bell and a set of deer toes w/handgun ammo casings. This is the one I wear the most (I just like the sound it gives of)
Bob.
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